Chapada Diamantina
2nd to 14th of September

As soon as we left the coast the environment changed dramatically. Even people's skin color change. All the luxuries we saw in the south just gone. Instead we were driving through towns without pavement and with huge amount of people. And yet, the order and cleanliness, the calmness and helpfulness of locals remain the same. We are getting into the heart of Bahia. The surprises just started. Even though we left the beaches very reluctantly, here we are now, in this huge (The size of Switzerland!) national park that only local people know of . We are discovering waterfalls after waterfalls, river of transparent caramel colour, prettiest and peaceful kind of little towns- restaurant tables on the street and musicians playing along. It is a very Bob Marley atmosphere. Suddenly all the tiredness of the drive and the ugliest slept in are gone.

"we are incredible lucky, deservingly so (ha!), but extremely lucky nonetheless. .." i said to Hecti just at the edge of the Morro Pai Inacio. It was an awesome and unexpected day, even for our standards :)

It started with a full on breakfast in the fancy hotel we stayed while I was working and sending emails. Next I know, after a short drive and a very nice walk through the rocks, a huge natural swimming pool at the end of a wonderful waterfall- caramel color. The poso del diablo. The water just divine, the perfect place for the sweetest pineapple I have ever eaten..(I am not sure how I will be able to find any taste in any fruit anymore after eating fruit in Brazil!)...and when we thought the day couldn't get any better....here we are climbing so high being rewarding with an spectacular view. Oh what a day!

Next day off to Gruta Lapa Doce, with their impressive stalactites, it is the biggest cave in Brasil and then to Gruta azul. It does take the name from the sunshine hitting the water making a blue ray...do I need to say more? We spent the afternoon in the river; the water so clean and fresh

Fumaça waterfall was a challenge. Up 350 m and 5 km walk each way it tested our fitness level. Not bad, actually :) In the town, an interesting story was awaiting us. A guy just cleaning his brother's art gallery after he just passed away and a canvass present. We also had "mate" in our home with an Argentinean/North-American young couple...just sharing stories and enjoying the moment. I can't stress enough how precious these kind of moments are for us. They feed our soul so much, they make our trip so rich!

We had a quick drive through the town Vale do Capao. It was Sunday and the market was full. Lots of hippies, stalls of fresh food, music and capoeira. It was not our scene. The smell of marijuana too strong for us!

Preparing for our intense trekking, just wondering can we do it? without a guide? Yes, we can! Following the donkeys shit. the same donkeys that the locals use once a month to bring food to their houses. And our GPS, in our mobile. Extraordinary. Exhausted. Limitless. Sleeping surrounded by the morros, resting in a hammock, in a house- pension- eating bahiana food and telling our stories to a very young crow....what a moment. For a second (only!) all our muscle aches just disappear and we feel so alive. I said to Hecti that I am still surprise what our bodies can handle; the last day 23 km trekking in such difficult terrain; up the morros, down the valley; the only relief the fresh stream of water that we found then and there and that we jumped with so much gusto!

Some blisters late, the first night back to our home, we took some paracetamol and a bit of codeine just to help us sleep. The truth is that it took us only 2 days of full food and lying low to recover. Idols!

In Andarai the greatness of the people again just swept us away. In searching for gas (yes, again), a butcher just walked with us all over town; taking also some of our heavy shopping bags, going from shop to shop asking people around for gas. This kind of behaviour, which we have faced on and on in Brasil is just incredible.

After 10 days on an incredible adventure and spectacular scenery I am so ready to go back to the beach!