Cordoba, February 2017

Alta Gracia

I have to be honest and say that we didn't give Cordoba a fair chance. Between the huge amount of people everywhere (first time ever in this trip that we are "on season") and the heat we couldn't really appreciate the province that much. Once again we were stunned to see so many "cabañas" and the view of the mountains from the road that goes from Mina Clavero to Cordoba city is really pretty...but...sadly we didn't find anything special...which makes us wonder "have we become desensitised with the beauty around us"? We hope not! Maybe is that we have had enough of Argentina and we are ready to jump into a different culture? We also believe that this time is just a break for us; a time to reconnect with friends and to just be.

Didn't know what to expect but remain open and positive as always :)

I haven't seen her for 38 years! And we both even agree that during our school days we almost belong to different groups: I was with the ones sitting on the left side of the room (looking at the blackboard) while she was with the ones sitting on the right. And with food (they own such a great restaurant...the "best restaurant in Merlo" as a woman casually told us :)!!) and life we spent the next 2 days together. At her home and then at her favourite place, "Nono". Two grown up women with their own histories, families, dreams, sorrows...

January 2017, Mendoza

We said that we couldn't live Argentina before visiting Mendoza. It took us more than 45 years to come back here. I remembered on my primary school graduation coming here and felt totally in love with this province. And now we get the chance to see it again with SalSolcito.


We received more friends. This time it was a very unusual encounter. A high school friend which Hector hasn't seen in ages. They wanted to see our life. They got inspired by our adventures and lifestyle. We asked them to join us. Anytime, anyplace. We love having an "open house" where all is welcome.


And so, we shared one week of pure nature. A desolated creek to put up a tent (Uspallata); a visit to the vineyard (and not just any vineyard but "the" place... never seen a hotel that upmarket!); the magnificent view of Puente Del Inca, another "end of the road"- a boat ramp in Potrerillos to put the tent again and kayak in the lake; and a glorious trekking to Aconcagua!!! (well, up to first base :). I said to Hecti that I always loved the ocean and I knew that it is my element; but this trip has opened up a new love on me: the mountains. Breathing in the mountains, not matter how difficult it maybe, has become a new passion and a great sense of accomplishment to us.

As we said goodbye we drove down to San Rafael, to Aguas del Toro. The worst road ever; even worst than Patagonia (if that is possible!) We suffered so much for Sal Solcito...we ended up in the huge dam, but at night we were rush by security to find solace in the tunnel as a big thunderstorm was approaching. It was scary. A few cars all lined up in the tunnel, we could see (and hear!) the hailstorm, there is always a chance of hail and the stones on the mountains became a real threat. So we waited for 2 hours and then...peace and calm again, as if nothing has happened.

A two days stop in Nihuil Dam just to wait for the Atuel canyon to open up again. So pleased that we wait as this road to Valle Grande is really stunning. We drove in the middle of the canyon; about 50 km of twists and turns. We spent the night in a natural campsite on the edge of the river. Hearing the rough water running pass was a treat...

Given that I missed all the wine with my non drinkers companions I did not want to miss the chance to visit an old olive oil production; and by the way it was also a winery so here was my revenge :) Ah!! Malbec..I love you

In Los Reyunos we spent the whole day on the water. It never stops to amaze us the beautiful houses and the exclusive areas that we found here in Argentina. We know that there are many many sides to this country but we never had a chance to mingle or to visit this kind of places. Los Reyunos is one of this places, houses on the side of the mountains overlooking at the lake... a clear blue lake...

Next stop San Luis, Merlo; where a great reunion is awaiting us

We finally saw him! After so many months and years trying, we got the chance to visit him in San Marcos Sierra, Cordoba. A hippies place, on the river side. Today so full as it is holidays season but still a quiet unassuming place with lots of hostels, campings, great energy.

I did a ride in his motorbike, shared a glorious Sunday BBQ. It was a friendship attraction on first sight! We promised to see each other again, and to do some much needed work in DV later. A doctor, a trusted and kind adviser. Always there for others. Non stop, no Sundays as such for him as people pile up basically and stopped him anyplace to ask for medical advice. And he always stopped, smile and converse. Calm, caring. "What do you want people to know about you" I asked. "I am fully committed to my profession and my patients. I am as you see me. My only desire is to wake up every morning being better human being than the night before. I am a man of service to others" Yes, you are! An honourable man. Cheers!

December 2016

Another whirlwind trip to Aus and back on the road! Even though we think is getting easier each trip, I can attest that the impact of seeing and leaving the kids is still so raw....we deal with the sadness in different ways. I cry about anything, I am irritable and nothing seems to be right, not the right food, not the right place to sleep, not the right road...all is not right. Hecti becomes angry, he gets like a one man word type, very distracted and  losing plenty of things and forgetting everything. It is not a good combo! We manage to get over with the days but is really difficult to go back to our "lives", our "rhythms", our "home".

And for all the difficulties we were blessed by the visit of friends. We totally enjoyed new year's eve in a huge and desolated beach (minus a few 4x4 here and there). We laughed so much with our new watermelon inflatable toy...BBQ and wine, champagne and chocolate under the starts. Another chapter, a new cycle in our adventure.

At San Pedro de Atacama we said goodbye to one friend and welcomed two! We were thrilled that after 3 years we finally managed to get together. So grateful of the big trip they did to join us!. Uyuni is left to do once we cross to Bolivia, as it was going to be such a hassle to do it from Chile. Instead we went to the Geysers of Tatio....such a magnificent view at 6 am! There are more than 800 geysers spread around in between the mountains, another afternoon was spent in the thermals baths and a full day to the salt lakes, the pink flamingos lakes and more emerald lakes!

Another huge crossing and we are back in Argentina. First stop, the butcher! :)

The north of Argentina is certainly very different to the south. Poverty in general is more pronounced here and once you move away from the capital cities and nature, there are very sad places. However, we always managed to find interesting people and interesting stories. This time, stopping at Campo Santo, the beautiful park. As usual, we are the "talk of the town", a "magnet" wherever we go. Well, SalSolcito is really the magnet! In no time we have people surrounded us and asking questions.  And as usual, conversations continue into mate with facturas(pastries), asado(bbq) and wine. New friendships are formed and once again we are so grateful for this gift. On Sunday we end up at the house of the local MP talking about politics, ethics, change, corruption. A very enlightened afternoon and the promise to come back to do some awareness in DV (at the highest ever rate here)

Salta Capital city

We still get so surprise about the generosity, love and openness that we get from people, wherever we go. And Posadas was no exception. Riding our bike, just 5' into our journey we stopped to ask for WIFI to 2 families that were having a mate in the park- terere style (like in Paraguay, cold instead of hot water), as it is so hot here! That initial chat eventuated in a Sunday family BBQ in their home, and 3 days later we are still parked next to their place where one of the families is building their new home! And now, this is our home...as we spent lunches and dinners together, cooking, telling stories, getting to know each other. A real family experience! They are working so hard, very long days, so caring about their children, so committed to each other...it was full of refreshing moments. We were showered with gifts and most of all showered with love. We are still shaking our heads. We visited their lights shop and the bakery shop of the other family. In no time it feels like we know them for a long time!


























After being spoiled in Posadas, so much love, so many presents...we left with new lights in our home! Now it looks more modern and spacious and most of all we can see the kitchen at night.






Corrientes


Buen dia Paso de la Patria! We spend the night at the edge of the Parana River, on a quiet village (now, because in season it gets packed!), and a long beach. A very nice surprise and an even nicer shade under the trees for a rest. We really enjoyed this place, the peace and the clean and fresh river!


We crossed Chaco without stopping, it was really hot and couldn't find any river or lake....continue then to Santiago del Estero and had lunch in the promenade. A new area, big park, with lots of entertainment like a karting course and even the hipismo club but not even a platform or some steps to get into the river....carefully we stepped onto the rocks and to the water; I think it was 45 degree! Continued our drive to Thermas de Rio Hondo. The road to Rio Hondo was the most boring road we have had so far! A straight road, that was it. Rio Hondo was the place my grandparents used to come! I guess not much has changed! It was truly disappointed. There are plenty of hotels, even two 5 starts ones, but not even a nice street to walk. The swimming pools were closed. We stayed in a camping (horror!!) that had several swimming pools (they were all tiny!) and although the water was thermal it was fresh enough to cool down our bodies. At night we had a strong wind that thankfully changed the weather..... some relief!


We were already very closed to Catamarca city when a policeman convinced us of turning around and taking another route, which we did. An extra 200 km from the original route, on our way to Tafill del Valle,,,,just hope it is worthy!






It was! Just a beautiful zig zag road, between the mountains and the river. The best thing was this morning. Waking up looking at the lake and the mountains, underneath the pines and cows and houses as neighbours! Argentina is really the perfect country for motorhome, I keep thinking today as we did our run. So many different landscapes and weather and pace. We are considering doing another loop, so we can visit Mendoza, San Juan and Cordoba.

October 2016
Posadas, Misiones

So surprise to see this city. It was Saturday night, we were so tired of driving and just wanting a safe and quiet place to sleep. The last 3 days of driving were all madness, 10 hours a day, worried about visas, sad about leaving brazil and somehow upset that we have decide because of the visas to change our itinerary and go through Argentina rather than crossing to Bolivia. We will do Bolivia after coming back from Sydney. Posadas has this large, tidy and glorious promenade on the river. it looks very new and the houses fancy, there is an air of richness to this place. Sadly, as we discovered on our second day here, the promenade is a one off thing. As soon as we got more into the city we saw a very different side to this provincia.

In front of the guard of prefecture and looking at the river we went to sleep with the promise to get our bikes the day after to enjoy a ride in the promenade.

We are celebrities! The local tv did an interview on us and Sal Solcito....so much fun! And the day after the funniest thing just happened. We were recognised on the street! hahahahah

After popular demand we were back! That means we were invited to the tv studio for a full interview....if we can inspire someone to dare, to follow their dreams...that will be awesome :)

Paso de la Patria

After 3 month we reluctantly left Brazil. It was so difficult. Brazil was much more than we expected. Yes, we knew about the weather and the beaches, but it was far more than that. Their culture totally fitted us, they are calm, generous, friendly to the max. Their music and their fruits! The smiles, the forests, the happiness. We made so many friends here, in every town, in every village. They did more than just stopped and asked for our motorhome. They invited us to their homes, to their tables. We were part of their lives, even if for a fleeing moment. We were sad but also in fear as we realised our visa had run out.

























We drove all the way, only stopping for lunch and to sleep. A long way. Talking all the time about what to do and the best way to front the borders. Many strategies and many many conversation later we crossed to Paraguay, to Ciudad del Este, the tax free city. Chaos of huge proportions and cars and people block the city. No one stopped us but when we wanted to register the "entry" to Paraguay we were asked for the "exit" stamp from Brasil. Uhh!...back to the car to think again. We decided to continue driving to Argentina, thinking that the borders at Paraguay far from here would be easier. It was very much a Thelma and Louise moment. Another day driving and here it is the Paraguay-Argentina border. A quick chat with immigration, a fine that evolved into a bribe (a new experience for Hector!) and off to Argentina.

Courage. Some madness too. I like it! She sold all, waited 1 year for her motorhome to be built and finally is on the road. By herself! Without knowing where to go or what to visit. Not a hint of anxiety about the future or fear about the present. We crossed path trekking in Chapada Diamantina and remained in contact. One month later we got together for celebration, for the sheer pleasure of sharing the journey and what Rio had to offer. We left with the promise to be together again. And it will happen!

Rio was as expected: intense. It added the extra tension of having being warned so many times by so many people as a very dangerous place. It did make for an uncomfortable beginning....but 2 days into it was time to enjoy this magnificent city. A rollercoaster, a non stop...from outrigging in the bay of Flamengo Beach with a bronze world medal young guy to bike riding all the way to finally arriving to Copacabana and then Ipanema. Feeling like a real garota, in bikini! What magnificent beaches! We did the walking tour and learnt more about the city history, and climb the steps of Lapa, we went to "Pedra do Sal" (Saltrock) where to locals gathered around just to listen to music and drink cachaca. We visited The Corcovado (the huge Christ on the mountain) just in time to see the magnificent view before the clouds took over and on the same day we climbed the Pan de Azucar and ate watermelon at the top. We finished our time in Rio in the best possible way: dancing on a rehearsal for Carnival with a local escola do Samba (which by the way is the second most important of all the carnival!)....only admiration for those bodies that move in absolute independent way. Fantastic!!! We left Rio going through their Tijuca national park lamenting that it was so hot that we couldn't do any trekking. Best of all, we enjoyed this city with our Brazilian friend! A twin traveller that we met in Chapada Diamantina! (more about her in the other section...)