9 to 16 June

We were going to just "pass through", we could not remember anyone who have been here for holidays or anyone from here living in Australia. This is Luxembourg. As usual, as it has been with this trip; the "timing" is always an issue. This time it was their public holidays and therefore we "had to stay" so we can see the place "alive". Well, the city was not alive but the place we stayed to sleep (an "aire") was in full swing... the music was so intense coming from a bar that at 5 am- when we couldn't tolerate it anymore- we drove to another area and park on the car park of the museum to sleep!!

(Note: the issue of where to sleep is our biggest challenge, but has provided us with plenty of entertainment....for example stopping on what we thought was a quiet and safe place to sleep just to find out later on the night that it was a meeting place for men....)

I always say that you see things for the first time only once; before being contaminated by what you see. I love that feeling of unknown, no prejudice (well, almost!); just letting your senses dictate what you experience.

Our first impression of Luxembourg was that everybody drive a convertible and that there are more car spaces on the street than the whole population! Talking to people was a delight; most  speak 4 or 5 languages with such as ease....this is truly a cosmopolitan place 

The city is unusual and pretty. The old city is deep in the valley and surrounded by a stone wall. The castles and the greenery is magnificent. The first sense is that of a skiing village but a bit more sophisticated.

Lured by the amount of nature and the innumerable cycle paths- a cyclist paradise!, we decided to stay and visit the different regions!




The cycle ride on the river's bank was every bit as great as it was promised, including a refreshing swim !...one way on the Luxemburg side and the other way on the German side- just a small bridge to link both countries. A fantastic night on the lake completed the trip

Another cycle ride took us onto the villages and included a long walk uphill to the Gorge's Wolf

17 June

We said good bye and crossed to Germany. Our first cycle was a 55 k through the river, country side, forest, villages, tunnel and bridges....spectacular! Even more the bus we took to come back! We experienced the first gesture of camaraderie/generosity when we faced a 10 k walk with a flat tyre just to be "saved" by this couple who stopped without being asked and spent 1/2 hour repairing our bikes. We travelled by night to Dusseldorf and become immerse in the football world cup fever!

I can see that we won't be able to post our notes and photos as we wish, hecti said... adding to the already huge frustration that has been trying to have internet for our trip. We have searched and tried, without any success, different methods and different ways to get access... it has become a great obstacle towards our independence; not being able to search for "aires" or campings in advance or any other service that we may need. The last 5 days have been filled by going one step forward and 3 backwards; even for us with no specific route! We are expanding our living arrangements to make our life fuller, eg our bikes; but in the process we are also adding more troubles eg buying stronger lockers and being already almost robbed!

The weather hasn't helped either... I have heard rain as I never heard it before... tons and tons! What that means is that we are stuck, can't visit cities or walk, can't do our exercises.... only thing left is to keep driving... and trying to solve all the admin issues that are still hanging on our heads.

We did have an awesome day in Hondarribia- Spain; just in the border with France. We found a great huge place for motorhomes just on the promenade overlooking a big beach and a few blocks from the village. I did go for a run in the morning and then picked Hecti up for a bike ride to the village; we chat with the locals and indulge in some pinchos...it was such a lift to our spirits.

Thee Basque Country is a very special place, the city is buzzing....there are so many 'tabernas' and people everywhere eat and chat....We got into the atmosphere very quickly and San Sebastian was as pretty as we thought it was going to be

We are now in our route to Paris, to meet Claudi and Tito. Can't wait to see and hug them! We also managed to buy- albeit very expensive- tickets to Roland Garros- main court, men singles round 3. It is a treat that I could not pass, having this opportunity!.

Bordeaux

I can't believe that I am at Roland Garros. I have seen this stadium for so many years on tv that seeing it actually was very emotional. We arrive after a 40 min bike ride; there is plenty of people everywhere and so may queues to see outside courts matches that I am glad I have a seat rather than a day pass!. As usual, it rains and it is sunny; and I see as many times I -have seen it on tv- the clay court being covered to prevent dump. The court is as orange as I imagine it would be... The way back home was not easy... the bike ride ended up being 1 hour, uphill, at 12 midnight... and without our iPhone-map!

Seeing clau and tito the next day is just a joy... as usual, it feels like the time has never passed - we just pick up where we left the last time...is easy, comfortable, relax... there are so many conversations, we start and stop all the time...

I can understand why Paris is the most visited city in the world, it is so pretty! I particularly love the fact that "modernity" hasn't touched all the old buildings -apart from the ugly glassy pyramids at front of the Louvre- a clear disruption to otherwise a fantastic harmonious sight. I really love the walk on the champs Elysees and we took a boat ride on the seine to be able to appreciate all the historical buildings- and there are so many museums!... but of course the best was to climb the eiffel tower and have a sip of champagne at the top overlooking the city with our special friends.

A very special moment: watching Roland Garros in the Eiffel Tower big screen!

On our way to germany now...it is strange to leave France after 2 months! We are heading to germany via luxemburgo and had the greatests news that Jan and Edu will join us in Amsterdam for a weekend at the end of June

 " Paris at night tour' on our motorhome

16 and 17 May

Crossing to Andorra reminded us to 13 years ago when we visited that country for the first time. It was as I remembered, clean and fresh; not much changed only too many more shops and less people shopping. It was our stop to buy the few things that were missing in our “home”...a hand vacuum cleaner and the most precious gift: 2 beautiful white bikes that will almost complete (think kayaks) our needs. Our bikes will become not only another way of exercising but most importantly our mode of transport when we go to the big cities.

18 May
The route between Andorra and Spain was through mountains, valleys, lakes, the small towns. We have been in awe of what nature has shown us. 

19 May

supermarket in Spain: all about Jamon 

It is somehow a relief to be in Spain. To be able to communicate freely is such a change of mood. I have to say that it was disappointing that lots of people we met in France were unwilling to engage in any kind of talk, even body language! Our first night in Spain- Sort, we celebrated by having tapas with wine; our first dinner in ages! We are happy to finally be able to have a great and healthy breakfast, a “proper” homemade lunch at 2:00pm and then just tea or mate the rest of the day.

Absolutely love the pyrenees- the combo of rivers, mountains, greenery makes this route an absolutely “must” for all. The weather, sadly, did not allow us to do canoe rafting....we had the adventure already organised...:(

20 May

Coast near San Sebastian

Today we suffered the worst weather since we started our trip. Tons of water for 2 days- non stop. We missed visiting Pamplona because of it! After arriving here in the afternoon we were unable to leave our car....decided to continue the trip and arrived in San Sebastian....

San Sebastian: Excellent food

San Sebastian: main beach

It is important for me to write every day, even if I can't post it. There is so many feelings and thoughts that comes to my mind and body as we travel that I need to capture somehow....

12 of May:

Carcassonne

We spent another week around Fontes, waiting for our motorhome insurance papers to arrive. Took the opportunity to visit Carcassonne- a medieval village with just a great castle and an incredible little town which is part of the Santiago de Compostela walk- Saint-Guilhem-Le-Desert....a "must"

I have to say that France so far has been an unexpected great surprise. Wherever we walk here, we are walking on UNESCO world heritage sites.

Saint-Guilhem-Le-Desert

We are almost settle into this routine of “unsettledness”. The pros are what we dreamt off: deviating routes searching for that particular spot; stopping in front of a dam for lunch, feeling like doing a workout in a near picnic area....that sense of exploring new territories, places that otherwise we wouldn't’ have known. The down of this life is that going aimless waste time and effort in petty things, like going back and forward trying to get somewhere and then missing out completely because that particular day it was closed....and the reality that being self sufficient made us more hermits than we were before L

By this stage we have become used to sleeping on our motorhome and on the street. We figure out that small villages are great for being safe. We tend to find spots with our SalSolcito where we don’t bother people or not drawing much attention. Just stopping, closing all windows, ... the front curtains and pretty much we arrived to our bed.  We have learned that every 2/3 days we need to “clean” our water so we look for special services for motorhomes. In that sense, France has been an incredible place to travel.

I miss the kids a lot; I end up in places like McDonald's just to get some wifi that will connect me with them.

15 May

Vernet-Le Bains: There is nothing like arriving at a hot spring site on a chilly afternoon! Just to get into waters of 37 degrees is a bless... and we did an energetic and hard aquarobics session! ...and a profound encounter took place then and there.....as we tried – unsuccessfully-to communicate with the receptionist, a lady comes over to help. She was a teacher in her youth, now she couldn't remember much and yet we ended up talking.... I tell her about our trip and our dream. I could never forget her eyes when she said  “ you have to do what you want to do in life while you can “.... she has just being diagnosed with Parkinson and  come over here (paid by the government) as this water have unique properties to mitigate some of the secondary effects of the disease.... Hector and I look at each other; if we ever needed confirmation that this trip was the right thing to do.... and we celebrate our 32 years wedding anniversary!

They are “social mediators”. We found them as we were lost in Lyon trying to buy our tea- yerba. They wander the streets attending to requests of help, like a neighbour’s dispute. Paid by non for profit organisations, they support the community. Excellent idea!

“I left North England on my 65 birthday, just 3 months ago...lost already 20 kilos...I am tired now and heading back home”. What do you miss the most?” My grandchild!”... a highlight of your trip?” being invited to a spontaneous BBQ with flamenco dancers at the beach in Barcelona.  I shared our mandarins and listen attentively to such an interesting journey.

“I come here for love, almost 20 years ago”, this cheeky malaguena said to me- and why are you still here? Still in love? “Yes, I knew when I met him that he was the man of my life”. Pretty romantic!

A very interesting combination- French and Colombian- these two are making the cross culture relationship work! Met them before our walk and we got talking. We loved the chat so much that decided to come back for more. Lemonades running, they told us their story and their dreams. She said something that resonate with me so much as I have heard the same over and over as I met “migrants”....she said “ I can’t have girlfriends here.....”. This is a theme that is being a constant in women who migrate. Nikki- the Jamaican English girl- leaving in Pezenas- said the same. Ali and I discussed this idea one night also in her home. We think that what w/them talk is about belonging, including belonging on someone else’s eyes.....need to reflect more on this

10th of May:

It was a perfect day; woke up early for a run on the beach, home-made brekkie of fresh asparagus, tomatoes, egg and lettuce; washed all the clothes; browsing through the Saturday 's market; lunch of mussels and rose; a quick nap; a coffee overlooking the ocean; some meditation;  in- movies night...oranges for dinner and hecti and I .....the small things in life...having the time and the attitude to appreciate them; I am a happy girl :)

"why live anywhere else when you can buy fruit boxes this good around here?" It was an afternoon full of smiles and the boxes look divine as a tv stand in the lounge room.....

Expect the unexpected. A huge truth, even more when you are travelling and experiencing the feeling of being free. As it happened not only we haven't left France yet but we found our new "home" (or motorhome) here....

She is a beauty, named "SalSolcito", in memory of all the holidays we had as children and then as adults with our kids. We always sang "sal solcito, calientame un poquito, por hoy y por mañana, por toda la semana"...We were right in being so picky, as we now have all we need: our big couch, the 4 beds (waiting for friends to come over) a full fridge and even some storage for the deck chairs, table and BBQ!!! Next: 2 bikes and a kayak (I haven't given up  the dream of carrying a kayak somehow!)

The trip from Fontes to Lyon to pick up our home was fantastic, discovering small and old villages through the french countryside

crossing the Rhine at Serrieres

department Du Gard

putting SalSolcito to the test...a very narrow and high bridge

After a few days on the road and needed to pick up all the papers for our car, we come back to Fontes. I will not write about the bureaucracy or the inefficiencies (which there is plenty around here..) that we met in our pursuit----I kept reminding myself that one of the lessons I need to learn is to be tolerant!!

Time to leave "the nest" now. What we loved the most during our time here has been our time together with Ali and Iso.  We are so grateful for all their generosity, kindness, laughs and stories. From working the land, the furniture painting, the markets, all the food, the walks, the supermarket rush, and the handiwork Hecti was able to do in their beautiful Fontes home. We will miss them so much! It is so difficult to say good-bye....I don't like it!

taking Ali and Iso to the airport we stopped looking at a canal for a celebration of life with wine, cheese and salami....Au revoir!!!

Next step: continue the journey along the border between Spain and France until we meet Tito and Clau in Paris

"just two simple words: to meet and to share", what would you like to share? I asked,  "our culture, our life, our differences".
You did more than that, you shared your home and your table, and your heart and your smile.

the view from our house- Fontes

lunch ready!

How do I summarise the last few weeks?? The highs and lows! We arrived in beautiful France, thanks to Alison and Isobel...they have this absolutely gorgeous place in the south of France, Fontes, which we have become very attached to...so much so that we forfeit our return to UK and decided to stay here! The vineyards just 100 mts away, the yummy rose, the beach only 30 m drive, the baguette we buy every morning fresh from across the road.....calm pace and the old towns all around us....it is easy to see why our friends love this place so much.

the "excuse" to come to France,
painting old furniture....looks amazing!

the vineyards 100 mts from home!

 

Pezenas- the neighboring town

Our quest for a motorhome continues...we have become "man and woman in a mission", single focused, Our friends have to remind me why I am doing all this, the purpose of our trip; as the intensity and anxiety tend to drive me mad.

...and Ali's favorite coffee shop

Drove for ages to different dealers, exhausted we arrived to a guest house; pitch black; no one around us....we were greeted by Michel and Patricia, a young and lovely couple of teachers who decided to also "live their dream", to open a B&B in Patricia's great great grandfather.

found Lyon, what an amazing city!

I am wondering if people know the impact they have on others. I will send Patricia a note about this.
They were the nurture we needed; a calming influence. They gave us coffee and tea and they prepared a homemade full breakfast for us in the morning. She was impressed about our journey and our courage- things that I forget when in trouble. She remained us about our dream and our purpose and encourage us to take it all in. Ali actually said the same last night, and to accept the difference in pace and culture.....Great wisdom! It actually changed our energy...





We are really so blessed by the love and care of our family and friends, they have embraced us and our dream, they are the strenght that we need...thank you so much to all of you