Slovakia

10 to 22 September

We decided to go the "healing route"....that is the mineral thermal waters. We stopped at the ruins of a castle (mind you this country is covered by castles!) on a mountain. 

The view from the top overlooking the green pastures and the village is special. When we walk in this places, it is easy to go back and image the life of the people here.

Our first stop is Bardejov and as usual we are amazed by the beautiful piazza. 

This one has been preserved in original condition (plus colourful painting!) and it has the town hall and the church as a frame.

It is here where we start our thermal spa visits

The emotional surprise was the visit to the synagogue. The only one that survived the Nazis and  after the communist government...there were 3 around here. It is a small one, but is has a library of more than 700 books barricaded in a bookcase... half burned.. This synagogue is the best preserved one in Slovakia and it is thanks to a man (protestant) who have dedicated his life to the memory of the temple and Jews who left or made to leave. He showed us the Torah, a shofar and different antiques.

We took a detour to visit a wooden church; there are a few scattered around. Dark, solid wood, a stream running on the side. It definitely look like a medieval movie!

And after so many old cities, we are back to nature! Staying outside in the carpark of a 5 star hotel in the ski field at the High Tatras, we walk first around the lake (of glacial formation) and then hike up on what is a ski run. The fresh air and the trees!

Our second hot spring at Rajecke Teplice - a spa resort.... pure luxury!. Swimming pools (inside and out) of thermal waters up to 41°, in a "roman like" decoration. Plenty of statues and pillars and even a fake facade of the pantheon. Soft lights and the smoke...It could have been easily so tacky and yet they pull it off! It is stylish, elegant and romantic.

Slovakia has struck me so far as being very nature like. There are plenty of national parks and rivers and lakes. The villages and houses are simple - outside the "old towns" who are always magnificent!. The people very rarely speak English- at least in the countryside- but they are very polite. It is hard to tell as it has been difficult to communicate with them. We feel safe travelling and sleeping.  What is upsetting is to see the amount of factories/buildings/houses that are abandoned.

Third spa, "the cave" in Sklene Teplice on the scenic hills of Stiavnicke vrchy. It come as a huge relief. 42 degrees of sulphate and magnesium waters after a gruelling 7h 36m of mountain bike- BMX style! It was such a challenge, probably the most difficult ride we have ever done....on the edge of a cliff, so rocky, plenty of branches and muddy, oh yes, real mud everywhere! We finished exhausted and happy.

Fourth spa: mud treatment at Piestany. After 2 days, I can still smell sulphate all over my body!  We also spent the weekend at Jana and Peter's home. We met them just as we were entering Slovakia, a few words on the street, outside a cheese shop. They invited us to their home and we stayed in touch by email until we met them again. A big country house, they cooked authentic goulash on the open fire, homemade bread and gorgeous wine! What followed was a lengthy and intense conversation about politics....Once again, we are so moved by people's generosity and hospitality.

The amazing luck was to arrive at Skalica on their national day and found a huge market, music, dancing, lots of food and drink and plenty of people dressed as medieval times....it was such a joy and an unexpected Saturday.

Bratislava is our last stop in Slovakia. The city, which is the capital, has a mixture of old and new. What impressed us is the amount of cars and parking on the streets. Once again, lots of monoblocks, a big new shopping centre, and a new complex (mix residential-commercial) on the Danube, "the old town", as we have become accustomed in Europe, is such a pretty place. The church, the town hall, the museum, castle, synagogue and the livelihood of pubs, coffee shops and restaurants.

Bratislava

Poland

8-9 September

Our entrance to Poland was through Auschwitz we talked about going there since the beginning of our trip. We even said that it was only that place that we needed to go. It was as hard day as we thought. Gutted and heartbroken we spent the day there, but the impact of that visit is still present today (as I am writing this 3 days after that visit). 

Krakow restored my soul when we stopped to eat varenikes in a very homely restaurant. The look and smell of them took me back to my grandmother Rosa. It took almost 40 plus years to feel that taste again....Hecti saw my face as I was eating....it was so emotional! And all of the sudden I was back in her kitchen, looking at her cooking while my dad and I are "stealing" the varenikes stuffing from a bowl- that she had already prepared and put aside for us, but nonetheless she complains while we are eating.... There were so much to see and feel in this city, and the old town has an enormous and oh so classy piazza that looks like a page from an old fable book......the pity, once again, is the state of the rest of the city.

It was interesting that the people we chatted in both Czech and Poland did not have a good experience with the Russians occupation and the communist regime.

Model city built in Krakow during communist period

Czech

3 to 7 of September

First impression - I said first impression because although we had been in Prague many years ago, that city is a "universal city"!-  plenty of trees, all along our drive we see bushes and "monoblocks"....they are now painted in different colours (they told us that during the communist government they used to be all grey) but we are surprised of the amount of monoblocks we saw in every small town we drove through. It was very clear that we were entering in a very different country to the ones we had been travelling. Where Germany was pristine, Czech was not.

Stunning Karlovy Vary

Karlovy Vary must be one of the prettiest place I have ever seen! (I know I have said that many many times but the places we are discovering are really so unique and so breathtaking!). The old town is in such pristine condition, totally restored and with new paintings... . every house, every building in different colours, with  flowers hanging of the balconies. The river running across, the little bridges, the imposing church. The only horrible thing is that this town seem to be the centre of cosmetic surgeries!! Every single place has a plate advertising a different treatment, some of them never even heard before!

Enchanted Cesky Krumlov

Cesky Krumlov is a UNESCO town since 1992. Dominated by the river and a huge castle (the second biggest after Prague) it is a renaissance town and a very romantic place...



and we rode our bikes to Olomuc on a Sunday and the best bit was to eat an icecream in the beautiful piazza under the
fountain! 

Olomouc

The very sad part of these wonderful cities is that ones you move away from the "historical towns"the rest of the cities/villages/towns are in very rough condition....

31 of August to 3 of September
Germany

Lubeck

They were waiting for us in the border, as soon as we arrived by ferry from Denmark. Such a joy to see them again! We discovered Lubeck together, walking through the old town, a medieval town.... and after a great lunch we drove to Hamburg to their home.

To say that we were treated like kings is an understatement! A beautiful house, a cosy bedroom and a scrumptious breakfast (it made our famous brekkies in Pyrmont pale in comparison!) .....

We took the train to Hamburg city and jumped into a boat for a ride on  the harbour with its immense cargo ships.








It is a fantastic city. Busy, interesting, vibrant. Dinner at their favourite restaurant (Greek) to finish a fantastic weekend.

We say goodbye to Karina and Rolf...for a few weeks only....we will met them again in Italy!

We continue our travels, as usual we chose towns that people recommend to us and we put "no motorways" in our GPS. This is the way that discover so many cute little towns were times seems to just stop in the 14th or 15th century.
Celle and Erfurt were those kind of places!

We took the time to walk through the towns, we look at their people and their shops..... we always attempt to have casual conversations...... just to have a feel of a place.

While crossing to Czech we reflected in how easy and pleasant has been travelling in Germany.... wondering what we will find next!

Salsolcito real first wash!

Change of plans (if it ever was one!- I can hear Edu's gasp...hahaha), deterred from the cold and rain decided to go towards the last days of sun that there is left in this European "summer"...that is to Italy!.....but instead of going straight we took a detour to visit our Maribo kayak club friends in Denmark, following by time with Rolf and Karina in Hamburg.

”How is it coming home?" That was the welcoming at Maribo, celebratory Wednesday nights (barrel of gold, silver and bronze medals from the nationals championships)...cake and coffee and wine, a glorious sunset, a paddle in the early afternoon, a fantastic dinner at Richards home. And today, finally took the courage to try the very slim kayaks- the racing and tippy kayaks!, thank you Tom and Kurt for a wonderful experience!

the meat perfectly cook, the sauce divine; his signature dish live up to the expectations!

Chatting the evening away I asked him what he would like to say about him...." every night when I look into the mirror and see into my myself- I want to tell " you have been a nice guy today"- and every morning when I woke up I say to the mirror " I will try to be a nice guy today- let's see about it tonight"...I hope very much never to have any quarrels with anyone...sometimes things do happen so get the best out of what happened and forget the past....this is quite important to me". Thank you for making your club our club!

August 22 to 25

Stockholm was very different to what I expected. It is a city that definitely has everything going on for it; and the old city is very charming. The traffic was chaos, lots of  streets under repair; it did not look pretty or exquisite or refined as I would have thought. Looking at the buildings and knowing more about its history, all made sense. A very poor country of the past, built under strong socialist values;  today still an example of government taking such a good care of its people.

They opened their home and their heart. We had several "homely" dinners with a yummy chilean red....sharing stories of migration, of latinos living in anglo saxon cultures, She has a quiet and strong core, he is known everywhere you go....mixing tango, ski, football and motorhome.

"...nosotros estamos en un viaje permanente cuando no estamos en nuestras tierras, esta diáspora no es solamente de latinos...y hay una ausencia y uno extraña esa identidad....cuando uno entonces escucha su idioma - alguien que habla como uno- ; hay como un imán, una atracción especial....y entonces estaba la puerta abierta y lo dijimos de corazón".....y asi lo tomamos, respondi."

We already miss them!

Cooking Sopaipilla

Alesund: a magical town

First we found the highest point to see the fiords', it was so cold but it was a clear day (or as clear as you can get in Norway!) and we were surprised to see glaciers. We then took the "Rolf route" (we took his advise) from  Geiranger via Trollstigen which has been named as the best drive in Europe. Zig zag down (it is actually 20 turns!)with the waterfalls on the side and managing SalSolcito was quiet an experience. The view at the top, as usual, very difficult to describe.

The village of Alesund look like a fairytale place, a beautiful rows of houses in 2-3 tones of colours; the harbour beneath....this city was totally burnt on 1904 and reconstructed by the new school of art, the "Art Nouveau"..... It was the biggest effort this nation had; all architects, construction workers, planners, designers were Norwegians but had been influenced by the new waves from France and England.....the result is amazing.

We continued through the "Atlantic road", which is a drive that join islands together to an extent that it looks like you are driving on water....and at one point the bridge does a turn and all you can see is cars disappearing on air!.....the way  we took to Oslo was thought the ski areas; were we saw such a dramatic change of landscape.....

Now we are only 2 hours from Oslo which will be our last point in Norway...what a trip!

Oslo is really sophisticated , exquisite, when it comes to the old town. The new city is really modern and still under construction. We saw so many new buildings and roads and trams being built. Their opera house coming out of the water in a dreamy like way, all the new buildings seem functional and environmental friendly. Yet, I thought that the city needed more vibrancy, intensity...youthfulness. I wanted some rebellion stuff somewhere!

....good bye Norway...what a great country for travellers (minus the prices....eg pizza= 65 dollars!)

Oslo: Opera House

Reflection: it has been almost 6 months since we left our home and embarked in this crazy, fun, challenging and adventurous way of living....there are moments when we think- and I worry- about the future, jobs, money. Hecti keeps calm, reassuring. What is very clear though is that the life of the traveller (as we called ourselves) is rich, unexpected but lonely. Yes, we have each other and we have such great time together(always!) and yes we are meeting people all the time but those are just passing encounters.....but  it is the moments, those simple and yet magical moments when we were with Ali and Iso in Uk and France; Tito and Clau in Paris, Edu and Jan in Netherlands, Luli in Germany (missing Nani a lot), Richard and the gang of Maribo Kayak club in Denmark, Elke and Nicholas in Sweden and Rolf and Karina in Norway that life became truly complete.