Rio was as expected: intense. It added the extra tension of having being warned so many times by so many people as a very dangerous place. It did make for an uncomfortable beginning....but 2 days into it was time to enjoy this magnificent city. A rollercoaster, a non stop...from outrigging in the bay of Flamengo Beach with a bronze world medal young guy to bike riding all the way to finally arriving to Copacabana and then Ipanema. Feeling like a real garota, in bikini! What magnificent beaches! We did the walking tour and learnt more about the city history, and climb the steps of Lapa, we went to "Pedra do Sal" (Saltrock) where to locals gathered around just to listen to music and drink cachaca. We visited The Corcovado (the huge Christ on the mountain) just in time to see the magnificent view before the clouds took over and on the same day we climbed the Pan de Azucar and ate watermelon at the top. We finished our time in Rio in the best possible way: dancing on a rehearsal for Carnival with a local escola do Samba (which by the way is the second most important of all the carnival!)....only admiration for those bodies that move in absolute independent way. Fantastic!!! We left Rio going through their Tijuca national park lamenting that it was so hot that we couldn't do any trekking. Best of all, we enjoyed this city with our Brazilian friend! A twin traveller that we met in Chapada Diamantina! (more about her in the other section...)

Buzios

It was very upmarket and full of Argentineans! The pretty houses, Mallorca style, in red bricks. We spent a few days walking to few places here and there but we had such strong winds that it was difficult to enjoy it at full steam. Still, we managed to do some walkings and runs and truly enjoy the pretty shops (we are so not used to shops anymore! jajajaj); it all looked very European...

Cabo frio

Back on the road we discovered Cabo Frio. Buildings surrounded by pretty dunes on the long promenade. Really beautiful beaches, the sand colour now closer to white. Perfect place for a nice bike ride but not for us. We really love the little villages!

Arrial de cabo
This is it! The dream beach. I could run here forever without feeling any pain. The sand, the whitest ever!, the ocean, so blue! and the peace and quiet of this little gem stole a piece of my heart! We slept on the beach one day and another day overlooking the magnificent sunset up there, on a cliff.

Driving south, to Rio, we thought of contact the "beer brothers" as we assumed they were somewhere near. And they were! We joined them at Manguinhos, a sleepy fisherman village with a big city just around the corner. They surprised us as they were practically staying at this couple's house... on the beach. Soon after we were part of the house too! Fish and chips one day, lamb BBQ (a la estaca) another day, musaka in our home later on and finishing off with an aussie brunch - vegemite included! that we cooked for them. It was so difficult to leave! A genuine, friendly, Oh so happy and open home. Three days later we are on the road again... but a promise to get together for Carnival in Rio. Let's see, I may be able to tick off a huge dream, to be part of a scola do samba!

October 2016

Morro San Pablo

We left our motorhome in the carpark and took a small boat to cross to the island; thinking of spending just a day. We found a village with shops and hotels and posadas and of course the beautiful beaches. It was off season, so it was perfect for enjoyment but I could sense how crowded this place gets in summer! with the nice promenade, the restaurants and the bands and the easiness of all. We stayed in a hotel for a night so we could be here for 2 full days :)

Itacare

Today is the 3r day in Itaparica Island. We stayed here as I needed to recover of a bad flu. A beauty.... we couldn't really have asked for  a better place to recover. Waking up every day at 7:00 am with "Amada Amante" by Roberto Carlos full on volume is something just unforgettable:)  We parked in front of the beach, in an empty lot, in between the bar and a house. And one day... unexpected story... weird, candour but weird at the same time. Hector was fixing something when suddenly I see him surrounded by a group of walkers. They asked for permission and after a second they decided to "bless" our home. Prayers and chants and songs. And  they left... beautiful. Another example of the generosity and warm of the Brazilian people 

You could easily said that we were adopted by him. He saw us first of when we trying to find a spot to stop. He invited us to park just in front of his house, an empty lot in front of the beach, among all his "cousins" houses and  bar. For the next 3 days he made sure that we had all we needed and more.  Visiting us every morning and afternoon, it was his familiar smiling face greeting us every day.  Lazy days of coconut water by the beach.

As usual, they stopped for a chat and a viewing. Our Sal Solcito does impress people! The funny thing in this case is that they have also a motorhome parked in their home...which we were invited to.  A beautiful house, in a condominium, a luxury motorhome...red!.  She is absolutely stunning and he is so soft and sweet. They are perfect together and with the new "babies" (puppies) they have a beautiful family. She cooked the best "cheese bread" and a moqueca style dish with lobster. We laughed a lot,  drank good wine (Argentina's Malbec!) and learnt about their lives. The day after, after a yummy breakfast! they drove us all the way to a mechanic (so many km!)....how incredible supportive! We really liked them! They invited us to stay more days, which was very tempted but we need to start our way back to Chile!  We hope that they dare to take their motorhome from Brasil to meet us somewhere....fingers crossed! :)

Our entrance to  Salvador brought some uncomfortable situations. So accustomed to the silence and peacefulness of the mountains we were not prepared for Salvador; which is a huge city! Driving through the old city, with the narrowest stress ever and the amount of people and cars, and up and down is not the way to enter the city! Soon we had hordes of "tourist agents" walking and basically throwing themselves at us offering anything and everything. We were only looking for parking. How naive! Even the policemen laugh at our enquire! A mistake then, inviting someone inside our car to guide us. A very nasty scenario, he asking for money, refusing to leave,  desperate attempt to take our mobile. Still shaking we managed to leave and found ourselves in La Barra, a promenade with lots of bars but quiet because it is weekday. And so, like magic, he appeared to restore our faith in people (people and their stories).
Day 2 was even scarier; when a street closed due to football and our friendly GPS took us all the way through the hills of the "community" (this is the preferred terms for "favelas"). Fair to say, we were never afraid of the people but more about the situation. Absolutely trapped on those streets, no room to go, can't go down (soooo steep!) By the time we managed to get out of the situation Hecti and I were so sweaty that we had a cold shower!

Two days in the city is just enough for us. Very nice bike ride and a walk to the lighthouse where all locals gather together on Sunday to watch and applaud the sunset ceremony. The old city is so pretty, with the colorful little buildings and the cobblestone floor. And the music, the dancing in every corner. My heart hurts of seeing so many buildings just in the outskirt of the old square that needs urgent repair, I think of Europe and how all the old cities are preserved. This little one is so special because of the culture and yet is mostly abandoned. We promised to come back to see our friends again but we need to breath! Off to the road and 100 km later (north) we found paradise.....(I know I always said that, but really  Guarajuba is paradise)

Condominium in Guarajuba

 If I always knew that my place is on the ocean, this trip have definitely confirmed that....walking on another paradise beach- palms, white thin sand, 27 degrees water temperature, no hurry, no hustle, no stress....I feel a different person, I am a very different person when I am in contact with the ocean. More attuned with myself, quieter, calmer... as Hecti said to me when I am in the beach I don't need anything else; don't feel I need to do something, be entertained... I only need the ocean and the sand. I said to Hecti that this place is one that I could see myself living for 4/5 months. The condominium are superb, the greenery, the bike lane and the culture. There are very few people now, which I love, but I am certain that it will take us only a few weeks to meet people, be friendly and enjoy a walk together...and because is in South America, our friends can come and stay with us :)

Praia do Farol da Barra, Salvador,  Bahia

From Guarajuba...we visit Praia do Forte as everybody told us that it was a great place. Well, it is a great place but not for us. Lots of upmarket shops, a real tourists place. Very nice for a day...we looked at each other and we both knew. We drove back all the way to Guarajuba to our safe heaven :)

A super chat sitting on the curb of the street, it was so hot inside our home. Life choices, a young entrepreneur with 2 small kids;  asked "what is the story behind your trip"? "Freedom, that is the story!". He promised to take us to the best gelato and to eat the best mokeka in the city. He delivered! with much more :) It was a tourist drive throught the city, the Bonfim church (and the ribbons), tapioca ice cream and a round table in a busy restaurant where some other friends just join. It really felt like any Sunday at home.  We come back to visit him and he promptly blessed our motorhome with the ribbons sitting now in the gear stick.

Chapada Diamantina
2nd to 14th of September

As soon as we left the coast the environment changed dramatically. Even people's skin color change. All the luxuries we saw in the south just gone. Instead we were driving through towns without pavement and with huge amount of people. And yet, the order and cleanliness, the calmness and helpfulness of locals remain the same. We are getting into the heart of Bahia. The surprises just started. Even though we left the beaches very reluctantly, here we are now, in this huge (The size of Switzerland!) national park that only local people know of . We are discovering waterfalls after waterfalls, river of transparent caramel colour, prettiest and peaceful kind of little towns- restaurant tables on the street and musicians playing along. It is a very Bob Marley atmosphere. Suddenly all the tiredness of the drive and the ugliest slept in are gone.

"we are incredible lucky, deservingly so (ha!), but extremely lucky nonetheless. .." i said to Hecti just at the edge of the Morro Pai Inacio. It was an awesome and unexpected day, even for our standards :)

It started with a full on breakfast in the fancy hotel we stayed while I was working and sending emails. Next I know, after a short drive and a very nice walk through the rocks, a huge natural swimming pool at the end of a wonderful waterfall- caramel color. The poso del diablo. The water just divine, the perfect place for the sweetest pineapple I have ever eaten..(I am not sure how I will be able to find any taste in any fruit anymore after eating fruit in Brazil!)...and when we thought the day couldn't get any better....here we are climbing so high being rewarding with an spectacular view. Oh what a day!

Next day off to Gruta Lapa Doce, with their impressive stalactites, it is the biggest cave in Brasil and then to Gruta azul. It does take the name from the sunshine hitting the water making a blue ray...do I need to say more? We spent the afternoon in the river; the water so clean and fresh

Fumaça waterfall was a challenge. Up 350 m and 5 km walk each way it tested our fitness level. Not bad, actually :) In the town, an interesting story was awaiting us. A guy just cleaning his brother's art gallery after he just passed away and a canvass present. We also had "mate" in our home with an Argentinean/North-American young couple...just sharing stories and enjoying the moment. I can't stress enough how precious these kind of moments are for us. They feed our soul so much, they make our trip so rich!

We had a quick drive through the town Vale do Capao. It was Sunday and the market was full. Lots of hippies, stalls of fresh food, music and capoeira. It was not our scene. The smell of marijuana too strong for us!

Preparing for our intense trekking, just wondering can we do it? without a guide? Yes, we can! Following the donkeys shit. the same donkeys that the locals use once a month to bring food to their houses. And our GPS, in our mobile. Extraordinary. Exhausted. Limitless. Sleeping surrounded by the morros, resting in a hammock, in a house- pension- eating bahiana food and telling our stories to a very young crow....what a moment. For a second (only!) all our muscle aches just disappear and we feel so alive. I said to Hecti that I am still surprise what our bodies can handle; the last day 23 km trekking in such difficult terrain; up the morros, down the valley; the only relief the fresh stream of water that we found then and there and that we jumped with so much gusto!

Some blisters late, the first night back to our home, we took some paracetamol and a bit of codeine just to help us sleep. The truth is that it took us only 2 days of full food and lying low to recover. Idols!

In Andarai the greatness of the people again just swept us away. In searching for gas (yes, again), a butcher just walked with us all over town; taking also some of our heavy shopping bags, going from shop to shop asking people around for gas. This kind of behaviour, which we have faced on and on in Brasil is just incredible.

After 10 days on an incredible adventure and spectacular scenery I am so ready to go back to the beach!