11 to 30 Janaury

Calafate. And so after so many years of planning and talking we finally welcomed Clau to our home. Always a party, a joy when we are together! We travelled for 3 weeks, crossing Chile/Argentina a few times but mostly spending our time on beautiful south Chile.

The highlights: taking Clau to the Perito Moreno and walked all the pasarelas; Hecti cooking lamb and going for a swim on the Lake Buenos Aires, close to Los Antiguos. Taking the ferry from Chile Chico to Puerto Ibañez and arriving of all days on the National Rodeo Day. We had a blast here!.Trekking to Cerro Castillo that we just discovered on route, besides a small lake and with great panoramic views. The greatest walk ever on "The bosque encantado", in the Parque National Queulat. Impossible to describe just to say that it really looked like a children's fairytale... never seen such different and awesome plants and trees... the walk going through a huge raft; difficult enough to be helped by a young and kind couple... and finished after a high hike with a bang in a form of a lagoon created by a glacier, shape like a cone with beautiful icebergs that Clau and Hecti dare to "stand and surf".... freezing cold!

Torres del Payne:


It is really difficult to describe our experience here. Left our home to board a boat that took us to the other side of the forest to start our walk. Full of energy and some trepidation...we heard about this trek for a while. Armed with a backpack - courtesy of our young Australian friends- 1 tent, 2 sleeping bags, a little gas cooker and some clothes, we ventured into the walks. OMG! We did trekking for 4 days- 3 nights, so demanding, up and down and up and up...really tortoise territory. We really thought that we wouldn't make it. 6 to 7 hours walk every day, sleeping in a tent....it was like being young again :) On day 3 we were rewarded by a magnificent surprise: kayak on the glacier. We will never forget that. A very crispy and blue sky day, so cold and so beautiful. The icebergs floating around, and up there really close to us the glacier...

It all started at the border as we entered Argentina from Chile in Tierra del Fuego. It was very late and soon after we did our papers "the officials" were in our home, chatting, asking questions....she in particular, of the pretty eyes, wanted to know more and more. Two days later, as we left for the national park, a letter on our windscreen with an invite. Next we drove off from Ushuaia to her parents estancia where they were waiting for us with "mate" and "torta frita". A beautiful house next to a rustic restaurant. In no time, the house was full of children and sons and daughters. A yummy BBQ, fresh salad from the vegi garden (I picked the oh so flavor! radish) and lots and lots of stories and laughs. Horses and a dream of building more; the rodeo and the golf. Ready to leave in the morning but the "cordero a la estaca" has been on the fire since 8:00 am! Is Sunday and all the family is helping in the big restaurant ...as we were too! Over rewarded by an amazing lunch, seating on the table at the "corner for the friends" space...

What an incredible place, such generous hosts! They have created the most beautiful and caring family....we really hope that one day we can give back so much love :)

It started as a joke, really. On the national park sitting next to a BBQ, they asked very politely if they could use it. "Is for rent, or better I will exchange it for food". Soon after, the two families were sitting with us and sharing their lunch! Quick chatting, as if we knew each other for ages.....their stories of hard work and discrimination for their skin color; so upsetting...but she laughed so big showing how great of a woman she is...a walk in the late afternoon and more food. And then; in the morning, stopping at the bakery were the bride to be works, a bag full of goodies! Bread, biscuits, sandwiches, alfajores.....how not to be grateful and so emotional?

Tierra Del Fuego
28 December

Long and treacherous, but much better than we thought! The road to Ushuaia is something that we did not want to put SalSolcito through. But she managed with full wings and colors (like my hair that is blue now to match the glaciers!) And we are so happy to be here just in time for New Years Eve as we wanted for so long...


Parked in the bay, next to a few German trucks- we laughed thinking of our delicate frenchi motorhome near the robust Germans- we were tucked in as it is really cold, but so pretty surrounded by snowy mountains!.

30 December

The end of the world. Literally. Where the ruta 3 finishes, at Lapataia. We did such a pretty trekking today, from Ensenada Zaratiegui, alongside the Beagle Channel. Green forest, emerald water, mountains...and a sudden "margarita" path! Picked a small bunch and celebrated her birthday, her life...missing her so so much!


Starving after such a long walk and after we had our passports stamp by the "official post office- end of the world- we drove a bit up and spent the night on a valley, between the lake and the bay; a fresh stream going through.... life is very very good!

31 December

Another magnificent walk! And this time we got to the border with Chile... and to the end of Ruta 3! At night, a bit sore, had a drink with a group of motorhomers and went to sleep after a midnight cheers and a yummy strawberry, cream and "dulce de leche" liquor desert!




1 January 2016

What an incredible year we had!!! We started 2015 in Morocco with Ani y Uli and travelled extensively. At one point, Hecti flew to Argentina to visit his mum and I went to UK to be with Jane and Edu. Reunited, we crossed then to Portugal spending a lot of time on its coastal line. Entered Spain and flying to Fiji for Daiana's wedding. Enjoyed a lot being with the kids and dad, Ines, Clau, Claudi and Tito. Back to Spain and meeting Rolf and Karina for the north cost of France. Driving to Belgium and then Germany. Finally, have a ball in the Baltic countries - Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia. A great adventure to Russia and Finland by ferry. Back to Europe and off to Poland and the Nordic walk competition....to Hamburg to take SalSolcito to the port. In Argentina, we celebrated Julian and Anna wedding and my dad 80th birthday before going to Uruguay to pick up our home and start our America dream. And today, while I am having breakfast in the most beautiful place on earth- Tierra del Fuego- the sun has just come out! Happy 2016!!!!

December 12
El Chalten

Ahhhh! Finally...!Such a cute little town! They call it the "Argentina's trekking capital". A gnome like town, hotels- cabins style and coffee shops and a few houses all framed by the magnificent mountains. The Fitz Roy track was our first trek; 12 km, hard. We saw the glacier, lucky that the sky was blue! The snowy mountains, the river- emerald colour- running down....Day 2: our second trek; 10 km, even harder! took us to Lake Capri. And after 2 months of doing no activity at all; today I can't barely move! Very happy!!!! Day 3: just walking around the town- 10 blocks only- the weather is bad again...Day 4: rain and rain and rain...I didn't even put my head outside my home! It is cold, these kind of days really threw us off. These days are when we start talking about the children and how much we miss them and we question for how long we could keep doing this life and what we will do when we get home....We decided to engage in a new series marathon, welcome "The Leftovers" season 1!...Day 5: a spectacular day! sunny, warm...took the bike...27 km on a gravel road! I was feeling really good, very proud of such a hard day of physical activity, but....on our way back we took a detour, just an easy 500 mts walk to a waterfall; as we were contemplating the beautiful landscape a group of young Israelies (20ish) lazing around come over us and said: "can we take a photo with you"? we couldn't understand why, so we asked " we want to send the picture to our parents back home, so they can see that there are also older people here "! End of the day:(

We then spent a few days in El Calafate but inside our home as I got really sick....

December 5

And so after again another big day driving....kilometres and kilometres and nothing at all, a gravel road that lets to nowhere...Bahia Bustamante. A seaweed farm! On a beach!. Three houses, three sheds and that is all! Looks like a perfect place for a big night sleep






Rada Tilly:

It is a really nice town, the "beach" town just off Comodoro Rivadavia. I was surprised to see so many new houses, the promenade totally upmarket and the beach that goes forever. A really good place for a rest and a run on the beach. The wind though was too much and made us to decide to cross to the cordillera side.



Sarmiento

They told us to visit the "Bosques Petrificados" and even though the road was rough I have to said that it was worthy. This "lunar" landscape- so similar in many ways to Cappadocia- put a smile on my face. A very enjoyable walk along rocks...a very peaceful view!

The next 3 days was much of the same, stopping just to sleep. The gravel road is really impossible to take. At 20 km per hour we feel it every bit, and we are upset for SalSolcito who is not used to this!!

They don't lie when they said that Patagonia is huge. At this stage it looks like we are driving safari style- plenty of Guanacos, aveztruces, lambs, cows, mulitas....all running alongside us! But the land is so arid, and the winds are crazy...up to 60 km!! All of us, including of course our home, is buried under so much dust.

I have to admit that I am getting a bit cranky and bored...all we do is drive and eat; can't do any exercise - the winds, the cold- I said to Hector: "I want to go back to my life"! meant back to Europe, the run and the bike, the fresh markets, the little charming towns, the warm (mostly!) weather...

November 28

Las grutas

So emotional to finally be in Patagonia land. It is quite surreal, talking about this trip since years and years ago and we are finally here! The enormity of all! Land forever, as long as you can see there is land. Arid, rocky, some bushes here and there...We got into this little village, well, I said little but over the season there are more than 150,000 people! I can understand the charm. The tides that goes so far away, 200 m leaving behind cracks and holes on the ground that make this funny shapes....the water is so clean and fresh and after a day of 36 degrees very welcoming!

1 December

Next stop, Chubut and Peninsula Valdez, people come all over the world just to be in this place. It is quite unique, the sea lions, the whales, penguins, seals...they are all here. After kilometres and kilometres of driving we spend a whole day in Puerto Piramides. And then two nights in paradise: Punta Pardelas; rugged, private, desolated... with the most impressive sunset ever! It was a NGM (national geographic moment: :)

We continue our trip with some reticence. Next stop Puerto Madryn. I am not sure what I expected of this place, but it has been in our mind for so long that when we got there....it wasn't that much. A small town, a bit touristy, and a beach that we didn't get to enjoy as the winds were absolutely furious!

Coincidence? Luck? Destiny? Wherever the reason for us to meet it was just marvellous! What started as "is it safe to sleep here"? quickly evolved into "let's pick up our son from his friend's home and come and sleep in our place! From then, helped by empanadas and mate we did not leave a theme untouched. Life turns, family, politics, the "shoulds" and "wants". "You are living the life of all the people, of all of us" she said. It was a moving statement. A big hug in the morning, croissants, a power point presentation for uni and a promise (desire) to see each other again. What a way to start our South American journey!

Necochea, November 25

I crossed the suspension bridge with the excitement and happiness of old times. Signing- like I did with my dad "this is the rio Quequen, repeat with me" Arriving to my childhood beach, emotions rush all at once. But almost immediately the sadness hit home.


This is the place where my mum was truly happy. She and I lived a whole year for those 2 weeks in January where I stayed in the freezing sea for hours and hours; played "paleta"; made ourselves like schnitzel (after a dip in the freezing ocean, we roll over the warm sand!); did Rollerblade in the casino skate park, played "tunasistesastorranteypelandru" (a very silly thongs game); drank mate for hours; eat white bite at the harbour; and so many more memories.... today, I could see her in every corner, at the beach, in the sea, on the 83 street. Too difficult to be here; we enjoyed a day of sand and sun and decided to leave. 

.