April 2017

Uyuni

Absolutely stunning. Difficult to describe...magnificent...12.000 square kilometres of salt. White until it gets lost in the horizon, we travelled in a 4x4 at 100 km per hour, crossing the "salar". Then, as if this view wasn't crazy enough we stepped into Incahuasi island. An island in the middle of the "salar", covered in vegetation...cactus of 10 mts! To finish the excursion, an incredible sunset reflecting on the "water"...that is 5 cm of water that covers the "salar" as leftovers from the rain. The colors we saw here...full of reds and pinks...and the few cars and the mountains reflecting like mirrors on the water. After a full day we were tired but wanting more!

And so, the day after, we took our bikes and off we went to the "salar" again! The noise of the bike in the salar is something I would never forget. It was as if we were riding on thin ice and it was about to crack open at every second! Something amazing is the shapes of hexagons that forms the salar. It looks like mosaics! We ended up again in the hostel of salt, and then we searched for the "water". During the day it look like ocean!. Decided to take a shortcut, we ended in tons of mud and the last 10 km was heavy going. We got into our home after 6 hours of riding, no lunch, bit of water, covered in salt, desperate for food and rest....what a unique experience!!!!!!!!!!!

Arrived in Tiahuanacu, a place Hector wanted to visit because of the important archaeological site. About 70 km of La Paz. After a full day of visit and half day trying (almost in vain) to cook a BBQ (the lack of oxygen at such a high altitude!) we heard a knock on the door and soon enough we found ourselves talking with this native family who needed some help to bring about a community project; that is showing tourist how their ancestors and still they live today.

La Paz

There is no better way to learn and to experience a place like doing it with the locals! Such a great opportunity. We took a minibus and we started our “tour” on the San Francisco church, walking up and down all the hills to the main square, the government house and the courts; spend some light time in the Bolivian musical instrument museum and walked though the Jaen street, a street very similar to a cute European place. A stop to eat some “saltenias” (empanadas) and off to the biggest street market in south America! And how do you reach 4,500 mts altitude? By cable cars! The cable cars here are used like the buses. Such a great way to see La Paz!!! All the houses against the side of the mountains, all of bare brick colors- you have to pay more taxes if you paint the houses!- The markets are such a crazy place! You can find from cars to toothpicks and everything you could ever need! By the time we finish seeing just a tiny bit of the market we are exhausted! Thanks to our hosts- uni graduates in turism that we met in Tiahuanaco!!!!

Copacabana, Lake Titicaca

I am writing this overlooking the magnificent lake from the edge of a mountain and the snowy mountains further down. Reflecting on the incredible few days we just experienced.

So eager to see/be in the water again; I just keep my breath in suspense when I see the big promenade in front of me. Huge disappointment as the rubbish around is difficult to avoid. But it is a great spot to just relax and if we move a few hundred meters away from the main street then it is a bit better. And the main attraction is to catch a boat and cross to Isla del Sol. Which we did. I said "we" as our friends are back! And "we" minus Hecti who has flown to BsAs for a week to be with his mum who is sick :(

There is such a beautiful view from Isla del Sol and we slept just on the cliff overlooking the bay. We ventured into a walk up to the other side of the island; always moving just a tad slow given the altitude. At this stage, after more than a month in high altitudes I am wondering when we will get back to "normal".

A moving experience. Two days sharing their lives, listening to their stories, the myths, the rituals, the everyday cooking. We were “hired” as tourists for the experience!. Took the llamas for a walk, cooked quinoa biscuits and cheese, made in a ground oven...eat potatoes and more potatoes and even more potatoes...laughs and learnt. We so wish them success in their endeavour. They were so humble and generous and passionate about their culture. And we are the ones truly grateful for the experience.

I was immediately  drawn to her. All about purpose, commitment, convictions and strength. The way she talked about her distant land,  its people, the music, and her defiant big black eyes. Hard and soft all in one.  A very different way to feel and to be. The realism and the naivest all in one. About the desire to go back and the difficulties of not fitting all so well in other places. I am intrigued. I want to know more. I would love so much to see Cuba with her and to learn more about its past and future.

Bolivia, April 2017

By the time we crossed to this country we were so ready! We have been in Argentina for what it seems like an eternity and we were looking forward to the change. It is funny because we were living in Argentina all these years ago we would never have considered Bolivia a top destination. And today, after hearing so many travellers rave about this country, we were extremely excited to finally been here.

It took us much longer than expected to arrive to Potosi. The road from Jujuy is beautiful, we see pieces of houses that definitely look like old ruins. The mountains are spectacular, but it is very dry and oh so high! We are chewing coca leaves all the time to avoid the altitude sickness but still catch up with us. We took refuge on the side of the road, only a few houses, some abandoned cars and some people who didn't even flinch when we stopped to sleep.


Potosi

Such a nice city! Colonial style, narrow and uphill roads. It is difficult for us to drive here. SalSolcito is also suffering the lack of oxygen! A big plaza, cute houses, the coin museum and a long line of butcher shops made the city. It is difficult to say but there is a mix of picturesque and bizarre when for example we saw a pig eating a dead dog just on the side of the road. The older women are all dressed as in a National Geographic episode. The faces are so marked, hard, dry. People barely talk and they take ages in answer. If I thought the pace in the north of Argentina was slow, well...this is almost still!

First day we just visited the city, coming back home and in the rain we stopped for a second under a bridge when a bunch of teenagers greeted us with a drink! It is Saturday night and before going dancing they get together for alcohol. No difference to any other country in the world!

The next day we attempted to go to "ojo del inca", thermal place nearby. No chance, it was closed :( but we like the driving outside the city. We got back and decided to do a trekking to Khari Khari lagoon. It is so hard to trek in this kind of altitude. We went from 4.000 to 4.300 and had to stopped every 20' or so. We were really proud when we reached our destination! But I paid a high price that night, feeling really sick.

Next it was time to visit the mines. It must be the only mine in the world where people still work "bare hands". No technology, fancy or otherwise, just their bodies and few tools. It was an eye opening. Working on such hard conditions, we learned about history and the life of the miners. They desire to give their children a different lives.


As we were driving to Sucre, we reflected on this country and what we saw. It amazed me that the poorest the country is, the more shops of "useless" things I see. And I had a good confirmation on this when in a sleepy little town we spent and a few days. Parked outside the school, in no time we were surrounded by lots and lots of surprising little eyes peaking into our home, asking questions, telling us their stories, They were so intrigued by our presence, even more so when we hang up all our wet clothes from the windows looking for some sunshine. They thought we were just selling stuff. And in this place, no paved streets, chickens running around, women cooking inside, all these kids have for "tea break" were ice creams, chips and coke!


Sucre

This is definitely a very different place, there is a sense of "real city" or how it was described by our Colombian fellow travellers "a white city". What does it mean is that there are all small and pretty white buildings surrounded the big plaza. There is the cathedral, the museum of Bolivian history (which we visited), the government building and so on. At night I got surprised by how many people live here, all rushing after work thought the big markets. We spent 2 days here and I can say that we got to know this place very well! First it was La Recoleta, the Jesuits place above the city. Very very pretty but so difficult to get there! All the streets are uphill and it takes a lot of commitment to want to know this place. All the way down we jumped in a taxi to go to the Dinosaur museum.

Really unexpected and so great! We learnt that there are 12.000 footprint of dinosaurs here, the biggest in the world. We walked next to a gigantic wall (that is used to be flat but is now a 75 degree wall because tectonic movements thought millions of years) and enjoyed the look alike species made at true scale. Next was the visit to the cemetery, an incredible place with beautiful monuments. What caught my attention here was the "children" niches. A look like window where people put flowers and plenty of toys inside. It was very moving

After 10 days here I still find difficult to articulate how I feel about Bolivia and its people. It is true that they are not necessary good host people, or even friendly. When we talked to them, they take ages in responding, looking at us almost in disdain; and then when they finally do, they hurried us to take action...for example if we want to buy bananas or not!

April 2017
Salta

As promised, we are back. An early phone call from some MP and a minister interested in my work with domestic violence back in Australia. I want to contribute, to share ideas and experiences. To be able to somehow pass some of the knowledge of the last 25 years. There is so much need and so little resources!

Walking the old track of the "train to the clouds"

I have such great conversations. I feel so excited to meet these women and even more excited to paint for them a hopeful (and yet so hard) future. I know that they are grateful for the respite, the understanding, the energy to keep going .... so many insights together, and one meeting become one more and then another and one more please....I found very difficult to leave. I know that I should/could/need to stay here for a while and do a project. But, I need to fly....

Tilcara, Jujuy

Nothing compares with arriving to a place and just the luck...... is the major festival! It happened with us on several occasions and this time it was huge!

Easter. A big procession of 10,000 people coming from all different areas to walk for 3 days over the mountains and canyons and to bring the virgin down to a ceremony on the church. So many groups, dressed up, playing instruments coming down from the edge of the mountains is a spectacle that we won't forget. And it happens while we are trekking to the Garganta del Diablo, about 3,000 m above the sea, preparing for Machu Pichu doing some altitude training.



Humauaca and La Quiaca

Passing through these places it feels like we are stepping back in time. The mud houses, the mud roads, the goats and the markets. All look so different to what we are used to. I guess it is preparing us for Bolivia,

Strong, independent, and oh! so generous. She gave us the key of her house and for a full week, parking outside on her street, it was very much like being at home. I asked her what she would like to say about her: "I am a very positive person. More and more I care less and less about problems. I never ask why this happens to me but what for". And it was absolute true! We enjoy each other company a lot, visit San Lorenzo and San Luis and two times ended up in a "peña" with "empanadas", wine and folklore music! Until next time, dear friend!

They did fulfil their promise. A BBQ in their place, 20 km from Rosario by the time we finished our Buenos Aires trip. It was fitting that we were there as their trip have somewhat made a backwards step. Their shiny VW at the door, waiting. It was a very animated night and a sunny day, breakfast at ours and then to visit their city. A walk on the promenade, a dip in the river, more chat and a send off with positive energy. "We want to learn about other cultures, other people, we want to change our lives.....we are generous, amicable and simple people"....hope they can too can make their dream...and that we can cross paths again :)

February 2017, Uruguay

"LLamadas" in Montevideo

Colonia

This time it was special time, a holidays! We welcome our brother/sis and travelled for 2 weeks all around the coast. Aided by a great February weather after an uneven January we landed in such opposites places as Punta del Este o Cabo Polonio! We have some serious fun in Cabo Polonio, particularly on top of a giant truck that crosses the dunes to get there. Hecti and I were here pregnant with D and with B as a baby. We crossed on a carriage. Now, apart from the trucks, not much has changed! No water or electricity, an eclectic group of old and new hippies, most of them "wasted". Great to spend a night only, just to walk through its infinite beaches and have a candlelight dinner. The place we liked the most was Punta del Diablo, slow, cabins like, relax and cool atmosphere.

Uruguay has such a nice pace about it; great for relaxing time not so sure if I ever want/need to live and work here! I was so greatly surprise by the warm waters and wonder how come I never came here for holidays and instead I froze every single year back in Necochea! 

March 2017, Buenos Aires

Tumultuous, intense, crazy, and yet so much love. It is always so hard to be here. The mixed emotions is too profound and the effects in our bodies, our hearts and our minds last very long. We get so much care and love but also we pick up so much aggressiveness. It is difficult to maintain conversations and to be interested and curious without feeling pushed or punish in one way or other. We get to be with all the people that are very important to us but we barely can enjoy. Buenos Aires, and in particular "la provincia" as opposed to "la capital" is difficult to love. The country is difficult to love. We get so disappointed and sad and annoyed every time we come back. We are and we feel so very different to many people here but we get embraced like no other place.